<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>Master Gardeners of Hamilton County, TN &#187; water conservation</title>
	<atom:link href="http://mghc.org/tag/water-conservation/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://mghc.org</link>
	<description>Master Gardeners of Hamilton County, TN</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 16:36:51 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator>
		<item>
		<title>Rain Barrel Update</title>
		<link>http://mghc.org/2011/08/11/rain-barrel-update/</link>
		<comments>http://mghc.org/2011/08/11/rain-barrel-update/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Aug 2011 21:00:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>slwencel</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[conservation practices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rain barrels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tennessee yards and neighborhoods]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water conservation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mghc.org/?p=3258</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>In case you didn&#8217;t get a chance to participate in the rain barrel workshops MGHC offered this year, don&#8217;t despair. Building a rain barrel is a relatively easy Do It Yourself job. The University of Tennessee through the Tennessee Yards and Neighborhoods initiative put together a publication that provides clear instructions on building your own [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In case you didn&#8217;t get a chance to participate in the rain barrel workshops MGHC offered this year, don&#8217;t despair. Building a rain barrel is a relatively easy Do It Yourself job. The University of Tennessee through the Tennessee Yards and Neighborhoods initiative put together a publication that provides clear instructions on building your own rain barrel. You can access the information <a href="http://mghc.org/documents/UTK Rainbarrel.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<p>One challenge for DIY&#8217;ers is finding an appropriate rain barrel.  The ideal barrel is thick walled plastic or other non-reactive material that will hold water.  It is important to find containers that held non-toxic or non-corrosive materials.  For example, look for barrels that held food products or gentle cleaning products like shampoo.  And always rinse your barrel before using.  You can check the classified ads in the paper or Craig&#8217;s list; be sure to ask how the barrel was used in its previous life.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p class="facebook"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/share.php?u=http://mghc.org/2011/08/11/rain-barrel-update/" target="_blank" title="Share on Facebook">Share on Facebook</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://mghc.org/2011/08/11/rain-barrel-update/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Rain Barrel Workshops</title>
		<link>http://mghc.org/2010/11/04/rain-barrel-workshops/</link>
		<comments>http://mghc.org/2010/11/04/rain-barrel-workshops/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Nov 2010 15:51:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>slwencel</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[conservation practices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[education]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[master gardeners]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rain barrels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rainwater collection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water conservation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mghc.org/?p=1236</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>The Master Gardeners of Hamilton County have been busy planning and presenting workshops on building rain barrels.  (See the informational post on rain barrels here.)  The 2-hour workshops are designed so that participants build their own rain barrel and have the knowledge to successfully install them and begin to collect rainwater.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>All workshops will be [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Master Gardeners of Hamilton County have been busy planning and presenting workshops on building rain barrels.  (See the informational post on rain barrels <a href="http://mghc.org/2009/04/24/rain-barrels/">here</a>.)  The 2-hour workshops are designed so that participants build their own rain barrel and have the knowledge to successfully install them and begin to collect rainwater.</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>All workshops will be conducted at the new Food Bank Greenhouse and Teaching Pavilion, 2009 Curtain Pole Road (see map below).  The cost is $25 and participants will build one rain barrel to take home with them for installation.</p>
<p>The following workshops are available:</p>
<p><strong>Sunday, November 21, 2010 at 2 pm</strong></p>
<p><strong>Sunday, December 5, 2010 at 2 pm</strong></p>
<p><strong>Saturday, January 22, 2011 at 2 pm</strong></p>
<p>If you are interested in signing up for one of the workshops listed above, please fill out the form for the date you would like to attend.  Please fill out just one form.  If the form for the date you want does not appear, it means the class is full and registration is closed.  Class size is limited, and advance registration is required.</p>

		<div id="usermessage6a" class="cf_info "></div>

		<div id="usermessage4a" class="cf_info "></div>

		<div id="usermessage7a" class="cf_info "></div>
<div id='map_2' style='width:600px; height:400px;' class='googleMap'></div>
<div id='dir_2'></div>
<script type="text/javascript">
//<![CDATA[
if (GBrowserIsCompatible()) {
    wpGMaps.wpNewMap(2, {"name":"Chattanooga Area Food Bank","mousewheel":true,"zoompancontrol":true,"typecontrol":true,"directions_to":true,"directions_from":false,"width":"600px","height":"400px","description":"Look for the Greenhouse behind the Main Building","address":"2009 Curtain Pole Road, Chattanooga, TN"});
}
//]]&gt;
</script>
<p class="facebook"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/share.php?u=http://mghc.org/2010/11/04/rain-barrel-workshops/" target="_blank" title="Share on Facebook">Share on Facebook</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://mghc.org/2010/11/04/rain-barrel-workshops/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Spring Homeowner Landscaping Workshops</title>
		<link>http://mghc.org/2010/03/08/spring-homeowner-landscaping-workshops/</link>
		<comments>http://mghc.org/2010/03/08/spring-homeowner-landscaping-workshops/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Mar 2010 20:34:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>slwencel</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[conservation practices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[education]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lawn care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pest management]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water conservation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mghc.org/?p=1144</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>With Spring just around the corner, now’s the time to update your landscaping skills.  Two Tennessee Yards and Neighborhood Workshops are scheduled for April and May.  Each session is held over 2 evenings, each session running from 6 pm to 9 pm.  The April workshop will be held April 19th and 20th, and the May [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With Spring just around the corner, now’s the time to update your landscaping skills.  Two Tennessee Yards and Neighborhood Workshops are scheduled for April and May.  Each session is held over 2 evenings, each session running from 6 pm to 9 pm.  The April workshop will be held April 19<sup>th</sup> and 20<sup>th</sup>, and the May offering will be held May 11 and 13.  Both workshops will be held at the Ag Center located at Bonny Oaks Avenue (6183 Adamson Circle).</p>
<p>During the workshop, you will learn</p>
<p>•          Nine-Step Approach</p>
<p>•          Turfgrass Management</p>
<p>•          Mulching and Soil Amendments</p>
<p>•          Innovative and Practical Ways to Conserve and Manage Rain Water in times of drought</p>
<p>•          Landscape Design Principles</p>
<p>Course materials include</p>
<p>•          Handbooks and guides ($20 value)</p>
<p>•          Two free soil tests. ($20 value)</p>
<p>•          A rain gauge and hand lens. ($10 value)</p>
<p>•          Lunch or snacks during night programs</p>
<p>Registration is limited to 25 participants, and the cost is $35 for individuals or $50 per couple.  You can register by calling the UT Extension office at 423 855-6113.   Go <a href="http://mghc.org/documents/2010_TN_yard_workshop.pdf" target="_blank">here</a> for a brochure.</p>
<p><div id='map_5' style='width:600px; height:400px;' class='googleMap'></div>
<div id='dir_5'></div>
<script type="text/javascript">
//<![CDATA[
if (GBrowserIsCompatible()) {
    wpGMaps.wpNewMap(5, {"name":"UT Ag Center","mousewheel":true,"zoompancontrol":true,"typecontrol":true,"directions_to":true,"directions_from":false,"width":"600px","height":"400px","description":"","address":"6183 Adamson Circle Chattanooga, TN 37416"});
}
//]]&gt;
</script><div id='map_6' style='width:600px; height:400px;' class='googleMap'></div>
<div id='dir_6'></div>
<script type="text/javascript">
//<![CDATA[
if (GBrowserIsCompatible()) {
    wpGMaps.wpNewMap(6, {"name":"UT Ag Center","mousewheel":true,"zoompancontrol":true,"typecontrol":true,"directions_to":true,"directions_from":false,"width":"600px","height":"400px","description":"","address":"6183 Adamson Circle Chattanooga, TN 37416"});
}
//]]&gt;
</script></p>
<p class="facebook"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/share.php?u=http://mghc.org/2010/03/08/spring-homeowner-landscaping-workshops/" target="_blank" title="Share on Facebook">Share on Facebook</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://mghc.org/2010/03/08/spring-homeowner-landscaping-workshops/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Rain Gardens</title>
		<link>http://mghc.org/2009/08/14/rain-gardens/</link>
		<comments>http://mghc.org/2009/08/14/rain-gardens/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:42:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>slwencel</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[conservation practices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[best practices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rain gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water conservation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mghc.org/?p=368</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Example of a rain garden, reproduced with permission from the
Missouri Botanical Garden.

<p>What is a rain garden?</p>
<p>A rain garden is a special kind of garden designed to collect and absorb runoff storm water. This would be in an area around your home that may have a slope that after a rain would collect water and hold [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<a href="http://mghc.org/2009/08/14/rain-gardens/mbgraingarden/" ><img src="http://mghc.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/mbgraingarden.JPG" alt="Missouri Botanical Garden Rain Garden" title="mbgraingarden" width="700" height="486" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-377" /></a>
<pre><em>Example of a rain garden, reproduced with permission from the
Missouri Botanical Garden.
</em></pre>
<p><strong>What is a rain garden?</strong></p>
<p>A rain garden is a special kind of garden designed to collect and absorb runoff storm water. This would be in an area around your home that may have a slope that after a rain would collect water and hold it for awhile.</p>
<p><strong>Top Ten Reasons for having a Rain Garden</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Filter runoff pollution</li>
<li>Conserve water</li>
<li>Protect rivers and streams</li>
<li>Remove standing water in your yard</li>
<li>Reduce mosquito breeding</li>
<li>Increase beneficial insects that eliminate pest insects</li>
<li>Reduce potential of flooding</li>
<li>Create a habitat for butterflies and birds</li>
<li>Survive drought seasons</li>
<li>Recharge local groundwater</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Building a rain garden</strong></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Find a location</span></p>
<ul>
<li>Place garden at least 10 feet from your home.</li>
<li>Do not place the garden directly over a septic system or near wells or underground utilities.</li>
<li>It is better to build the rain garden in full or partial sun, not directly under a big tree.</li>
<li>Water should only pool in your rain garden for several hours after the rainfall before it is absorbed.</li>
<li>Do not place rain garden in a part of the yard that already ponds. The goal of the rain garden is to encourage infiltration, and those areas have a slow infiltration.</li>
</ul>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Decide how to channel the water</span></p>
<ul>
<li>Direct water from downspouts, driveways, patios, or other hard surfaces using gutter extentions, piping, or ditches.</li>
<li>If expecting heavy flows of water a rock-lined ditch is advisable.  Line it with landscape fabric to prevent eroding.</li>
<li>Stabilize area where water enters the garden with stone to prevent erosion.</li>
</ul>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Determine size,shape and placement</span></p>
<ul>
<li>Central portion must be six inches below the grade of the surrounding land in order to temporarily hold water.</li>
<li>Gently slope garden: 1 inch drop for every foot across.</li>
<li>Rain gardens are best on a flat surface.</li>
<li>If on a slope, dig more deeply into the high side of the slope to produce a level bottom.</li>
<li>Build a berm or bump on the lower-end to keep water in the garden.</li>
<li>Can be circular, kidney-shaped or long and narrow.</li>
</ul>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Installing</span></p>
<ul>
<li>Use a garden hose, string, or paint can to delineate the outline.</li>
<li>If possible work with dry soil to avoid soil compaction.</li>
<li>Loosen the soil at least two feet deep to help plants establish root systems.</li>
<li>Use extra soil (3 to 6 inches high) to create a berm along edge of the downslope side. Compact this soil to hold the water in the garden.</li>
<li>If soil is mostly clay, amend soil to make it more permeable.</li>
<li>Plant your rain garden- work from one side to the other to avoid foot traffic (soil compaction).</li>
<li>Water your plants.</li>
<li>Mulch your garden.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Choosing the right plants</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Select plants that can take dry to moist conditions.</li>
<li>Try to use native, non-invasive species that are resistant to the stress from both periods of wet and dry.</li>
<li>Start with plants that have a good root structure – not from seed.</li>
<li>Consider zone hardiness, sun/shade needs, moisture needs, soil type.</li>
<li>Choose water loving plants for the lowest portion of the garden (center) and dry-tolerant plants for the edges.</li>
<li>Use native plants whenever possible. Native plants will survive better in our environment.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Plant list for a Rain Garden</strong></p>
<p><strong>Trees</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Red maple, <em>Acer rubrum</em></li>
<li>Serviceberry, <em>Amelanchier canadensis</em></li>
<li>River birch, <em>Betula nigra</em></li>
<li>White ash, <em>Fraxinus americana</em></li>
<li>Green ash, <em>Fraxinus virginiana</em></li>
<li>Witchhazel, <em>Hammamelis virginiana</em></li>
<li>Red cedar, <em>Juniperus virginiana</em></li>
<li>Sweetgum, <em>Liquidambar styraciflua</em></li>
<li>America Hop hornbeam, <em>Ostrya virginiana</em></li>
<li>Pin Oak, <em>Quercus palustris</em></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Shrubs</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Red chokeberry, <em>Aronia arbutfolia</em></li>
<li>Black Chokeberry, <em>Aronia melanocarpa</em></li>
<li>Inkberry, <em>Ilex glabra</em></li>
<li>American Holly, <em>Ilex opaca</em></li>
<li>Winterberry holly, <em>Ilex verticillata</em></li>
<li>Mountain laurel, <em>Kalmia latifolia</em></li>
<li>Northern spicebush, <em>Lindere benzoin</em></li>
<li>Virginia creeper, <em>Parthenocissus quinquefolia</em></li>
<li>Pinxterbloom azalea, <em>Rhododendron periclymenoides</em></li>
<li>Great Rhododendron, <em>Rhododendron maximum</em></li>
<li>Elderberry, <em>Sambucus canadensis</em></li>
<li>Highbush Blueberry, <em>Vaccinium corymbosium</em></li>
<li>Witherod, <em>Viburnum cassinoides</em></li>
<li>Northern arrowwood, <em>Viburnum dentatum</em></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Perennials</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Northern maidenhair fern, <em>Adiantum pedatum</em></li>
<li>Jack-in-the-pulpit, <em>Arisaema triophyllum</em></li>
<li>Wild Columbine, <em>Aquilegia canadensis</em></li>
<li>Bushy Aster, <em>Aster dumosus</em></li>
<li>New England Aster, <em>Aster novae-angliae</em></li>
<li>Glade fern, <em>Deparia acrostichoides</em></li>
<li>Sweet Joe-Pye weed, <em>Eupatorium purpureum</em></li>
<li>Wintergreen, <em>Gaultheria procumbens</em></li>
<li>Wild Geranium, <em>Geranium maculatum</em></li>
<li>Cardinal flower, <em>Lobelia cardenalis</em></li>
<li>Great blue lobelia, <em>Lobelia siphilitica</em></li>
<li>Bee balm, <em>Monarda didyma</em></li>
<li>Interrupted Fern, <em>Osmunda claytoniana</em></li>
<li>Switchgrass, <em>Panicum virgatum</em></li>
<li>White-beard tongue, <em>Penstemon digitalis</em></li>
<li>Silverleaf mountain mint, <em>Pycnanthemum incanum</em></li>
<li>Wrinkled-leaved goldenrod, <em>Solidago rugosa</em></li>
<li>New York fern, <em>Thelypteris noveboracensis</em></li>
</ul>
<p>For more information about rain gardens (also known as wetlands), visit the <a href="http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/feature/backyard/BakWet.html">Backyard Conservation website</a> of the US Department of Agriculture.</p>
<p class="facebook"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/share.php?u=http://mghc.org/2009/08/14/rain-gardens/" target="_blank" title="Share on Facebook">Share on Facebook</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://mghc.org/2009/08/14/rain-gardens/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Rain Barrels</title>
		<link>http://mghc.org/2009/04/24/rain-barrels/</link>
		<comments>http://mghc.org/2009/04/24/rain-barrels/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Apr 2009 13:21:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>hajones</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[conservation practices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rain barrels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water conservation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mghc.org/?p=12</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[capturing water greatly reduces the amount of water lost to stormwater run-off and the chemical pollutants from lawn fertilizers swept into our creeks and streams in a heavy rain.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p align="left"><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p align="left"><strong>What is a rain barrel?</strong></p>
<p align="left">A rain barrel is any wooden, plastic or terra cotta container positioned so as to capture the runoff from your roof during a rain.  A spigot near the bottom of the barrel makes using the captured water much easier.</p>
<p align="left"><a href="http://mghc.org/?attachment_id=287" ><img src="" alt="rain barrel in situ" title="rainbarrelphoto" class="alignright size-full wp-image-287" /></a></p>
<p align="left"><strong>Why should I bother with a rain barrel?</strong></p>
<p align="left">Lawn and garden watering makes up nearly 40% of total household water use during the summer.  Rain barrels collect and store water for when its most needed during periods of drought.  Rain barrels provide a free source of “soft” water containing no chlorine, lime or calcium making it ideal for watering plants, washing cars, filling aquariums or for childrens play.</p>
<p align="left">Furthermore capturing water greatly reduces the amount of water lost to stormwater run-off and the chemical pollutants from lawn fertilizers swept into our creeks and streams in a heavy rain.</p>
<p><strong>How much rain water could I expect to capture?</strong></p>
<p align="left">One inch of rainfall on a 1000 square foot roof generates 623 gallons of runoff.  Assuming you have 65-gallon barrels, you could fill ten barrels during a one-inch rainfall!</p>
<p align="left"><strong>How much money would that save me?</strong></p>
<p align="left">At a rate of about 1/2 cent per gallon for city water (more if you&#8217;re on sewer), you would save more than $25 during a one-inch rain! If you converted containers for maximum water collection, you would recoup more than the up-front cost during the first season of normal rainfall.</p>
<p><strong>How many barrels would I need?</strong></p>
<p align="left">That will depend on how you wish to use the water and the size of your roof. If you want maximum garden use, you would calculate the amount expected from a one-inch rain and connect barrels together at each downspout for maximum collection.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Where can I get rain barrels?</strong></p>
<p>Purchasable, ready-to-install barrels can be found in magazines such as Gardener Supply, at local hardware stores such as Ace, and on-line from a variety of sources, and plastic trash cans are available at all home improvement and hardware stores.  Wooden and plastic barrels and plastic trash cans must be converted.  Instructions for conversion can be found on the Master Gardener website.</p>
<p><strong>What is my yard isn&#8217;t level?</strong></p>
<p>Gravity is necessary to get a strong flow from your barrel.  When the yard is not level, it is easy to raise the barrels to the appropriate height using concrete blocks.  Painting the blocks is easy to create a more uniform appearance.</p>
<p><strong>How do I convert a plastic barrel to a rain barrel?</strong></p>
<p>The hardware and tools necessary for barrel conversion are listed on our website. With the correct tools, it&#8217;s an easy and fun job. And a Master Gardener is always available to guide you. Just call the Extension Office and ask for a referral.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a rel="attachment wp-att-199" href="http://mghc.org/2009/04/24/rain-barrels/rainbarrel/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-199 aligncenter" title="rainbarrel" src="http://mghc.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/rainbarrel-249x300.jpg" alt="rainbarrel" width="249" height="300" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Tools Needed for Rain Barrel Conversion</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Electric Drill with boring bit</li>
<li>3/4 inch spigot</li>
<li>Washers (2)</li>
<li>Lock Nut</li>
<li>For the overflow:</li>
<li>1 1/2 “ 90 degree Overflow Coupling</li>
<li>Washers</li>
<li>Lock Nut</li>
<li>Plumbers Tape</li>
<li>Silicon</li>
<li>Screen Wire</li>
<li>Hack Saw</li>
<li>Tape Measure</li>
<li>Downspout Crimper</li>
<li>Larvacide Donuts</li>
<li>Concrete Blocks (for increasing gravity)</li>
</ul>
<div><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span></div>
<p><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span></span></p>
<p align="left">For wooden whiskey barrels which are about an inch thick, a steel nipple is necessary for both the spigot and the overflow.  Choose a boring bit to accommodate the CENTER of the nipple. (For a 3/4 inch spigot, you will probably need a 1” boring bit. Try it out on a spare piece of wood to know just how tight the fit will be. A little sanding with a round file or a Dremele might be necessary to get the best fit.)</p>
<p align="left">The top of wooden barrels must be removed to install the conversion hardware.  Cutting the top out with a jigsaw leaving a 2 inch rim provides a perfect device to hold the screen wire in place.  It&#8217;s helpful to keep the pieces in the correct order as they fall from the barrel top and to mark where they go back.  Pieces must be glued back together for the rim to be useful in securing the screen wire.</p>
<p align="left">Measure about 4 inches from the bottom of the barrel to drill the spigot hole.  Bits of asphalt are washed off your roof in a hard rain, and this leaves enough space for any small trash to settle.  Wooden Barrels:  Chose a wide stave (the cork stave is usually the widest and the barrel looks best with both centered in the front).</p>
<p align="left">Drill the hole approximate for the size of your spigot for the size of the steel nipple on the wooden barrel.  Insert spigot with washer on the outside and begin to tighten with the washer and lock nut on the inside.  Before it&#8217;s completely tight, squeeze a bead of silicon and both sides to prevent any leakage.</p>
<p>Choose the side of the barrel for the overflow (important only if you will be connecting to another barrel) and follow the same procedure with the boring bit, hardware and silicon.</p>
<p>Now draw a circle in the plastic lid and saw the opening.  Cut a large enough circle of screen wire so that the lid holds it securely in place.  Measure 6 to 9 inches above the height of the barrel (when it is in place under the downspout) and cut the downspout with a hacksaw.  Crimp the corners and insert an elbow on the OUTSIDE of the downspout so that the flow drops into your barrel.</p>
<p>Attach a garden hose or soaker hose to the spigot and wait for rain. When the barrel is filled, use the larvacide donuts for extra insurance against mosquito breeding.  You will need only about a quarter of a donut per month.</p>
<p>Now you can take it easy during the next drought!</p>
<p class="facebook"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/share.php?u=http://mghc.org/2009/04/24/rain-barrels/" target="_blank" title="Share on Facebook">Share on Facebook</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://mghc.org/2009/04/24/rain-barrels/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

