Black and purple raspberries should be pruned just as buds break in the spring.  Shorten branches on the canes to 8 to 12 inches to promote branching. As new canes develop, maintain them at a height of 18 to 20 inches by tipping. This will promote branching and increase the stem diameter. After the crop is harvested, remove older canes at the soil line to decrease disease pressure.  Red raspberries do not branch well and should not be pruned during their first season’s growth.  Two year old canes can be topped at a height where they can support themselves and their fruit.  After the fruit is harvested, as with other raspberries, these canes should be removed at ground level.

Upright or erect-type blackberries should be pruned this spring, also.  As growth starts, remove any weak or dead canes and head side branches back to 12 to 18 inches.  Thin out sucker plants during the summer and tip new canes back to 24 to 30 inches to encourage branching.

If your apple trees were stricken with fire blight last year, expect it again this spring.  The brown to black scorched appearance of twigs, flowers, and foliage are the most recognized symptom of fire blight.  Later shoot tips often bend to resemble a shepherd’s crook.  Use streptomycin to control this disease, beginning applications at early bloom and repeating every 3 to 5 days until petal fall.  Avoid times when bees are most active.  Pruning out cankers and blighted shoots is a useful cultural control method. Cuts should be made 10-12 inches below the evidence of disease.  To avoid spreading the bacteria with your pruners, clean them with household bleach diluted 1:4 with water, after each cut.  Avoid excessive fertilizer and excessive pruning which promotes vigorous growth, which is susceptible to infection.

To avoid black rot in grapes, begin a rigorous spray schedule when new shoots are 2 to 4 inches long.  Repeat applications every 7 to 10 days until bloom.  This is a critical spray period to reduce rotting of some or all of the grapes in a cluster.  This disease is favored by warm, humid weather which is typically found in Tennessee.  Use Captan, ferbam or mancozeb with malathion.

Fire blight on apple and pear is a serious pest in central Tennessee.  The most noticeable symptom of this disease is the brown to black scorched appearance of twigs, flowers and foliage.  Shoot tips are often the first area attacked and frequently respond by bending into the shape of a shepherd’s crook.  The bacteria causing fire blight are carried by wind, rain and insects to blossoms or young shoots.  Control is somewhat difficult and requires an integrated approach.  Begin by planting varieties with resistance to fire blight.  These varieties may still be prone to the disease in warm, wet weather but the effects are often lessened.  Pruning out cankers and blighted shoots is a useful cultural control of the disease.  These infected areas will serve as a source for infection for healthy shoots.   Cuts should be made 10-12 inches below the evidence of disease.  To avoid spreading the bacteria with your pruners, clean them with household bleach diluted 1:4 with water, after each cut.  Also, fertilize your trees for moderate growth only.   Excessive fertilizer and excessive pruning will promote vigorous growth, which is susceptible to infection.  For chemical control, streptomycin is your best choice.  Apply at 1 teaspoon/gallon beginning when 20% of the blooms are open and continuing until petal fall every 5 days.  After petal fall, you can lower the rate and mixture according to label directions.  Remember that apple and pear are not the only fire blight susceptible plants you may own.   Landscape plants such as cotoneaster, crabapple, hawthorne, mountain ash, ornamental pear, firethorn, plum, quince and spirea may also serve as a source of infection.

Groundcovers and Lawns:

Make your first application of fertilizer to warm season grasses (i.e., bermudagrass, Zoysia) after April 15.  Use 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. of lawn.  Phosphorous and potassium recommendations are best decided after taking a soil test.  You will want to follow-up with a second application of 1 pound of fertilizer on June 1.

Your last application of nitrogen fertilizer for cool-season lawns should be no later than April 15.  Use only ½ pound of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet of lawn at this time to reduce susceptibility to Brown Patch.

Your first application of pre-emergence herbicide control of crabgrass should also been applied by this date, but don’t forget to make a second application four to six weeks later to knockout goosegrass.  This can cause a problem if you are using an herbicide/fertilizer combination on cool-season lawns.  Since your second application will occur after April, switch to a pre-emergent herbicide without the added fertilizer such as Surflan, Pendimethalin or Barricade.  Read the label for restrictions on lawns seeded last fall.

For warm season grasses, April 15 marks your first application of fertilizer. Use 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. of lawn. Phosphorous and potassium recommendations are best decided after taking a soil test. You will want to follow-up with a second application of 1 pound of fertilizer on June 1.

Your first application of pre-emergence herbicide control of crabgrass should have also been applied by this date, but don’t forget to make a second application four to six weeks later to knockout goosegrass. This can cause a problem if you are using a herbicide/fertilizer combination on cool-season lawns. Since your second application will occur after April, switch to a pre-emergent herbicide without the added fertilizer such as Surflan, Pendimethalin or Barricade. Read the label for restrictions on lawns seeded last fall.

Perennial Flowers and Vines

One common question people ask about perennials concerns dividing.  When is the best time to divide and what’s the best way?  Although there is no rule as to when to divide perennials, some may be ready for division as early as 3 years and others as late as 10 years.  Some perennials should never be divided.  Lucky for us, perennials have a way of letting you know when it’s time.  Signals you should notice include: worn out or dead centers; smaller than normal flowers; stems falling over easily; bottom foliage is sparse; loss of vigor; or overgrowing its bounds.

Spring is a great time for dividing most perennials since temperatures are cooler and there is typically more soil moisture, which reduces plant stress.  Begin dividing a plant by digging around the plant and lifting out the entire clump.  Use a spade or sharp knife to cut the clump into quart or gallon sized divisions.  Each division needs to have three to five vigorous shoots.  Discard divisions from the dead center and any less vigorous portions.  Divisions should be kept moist and shaded as you prepare your planting site.  Divisions can be replanted immediately and should be watered in well.  This process works well for most clump-growing perennials (i.e., daylilies, Siberian iris, spiderwort).  Fleshy-rooted perennials (i.e., poppy, peony, iris) are best divided in late summer to early fall.  Other perennials such as hellebores, baptisia, and other woody-root plants are difficult to divide and better left alone.

A layer of mulch around your perennials this spring can help better prepare your plants for summer.  Mulch helps to regulate soil moisture and soil temperatures.  It also suppresses weed growth and improves the soil structure. Avoid applying mulch deeper than 3 inches.  Also be careful not to much around and over the plants’ crown as this can lead to disease problems.  Good options for mulch include compost, pine needles, shredded bark and pine bark.

More than any other ornamental plant, vines have a way of fitting the many special niches in your landscape.  If you are looking for color on arbors or walls, vines can do it.  If you are looking to screen unsightly views, vines can do it.  If you can’t get grass to grow in the shade, vines can do it.  If you need to provide privacy on patios (you guessed it) vines can do it.  Vines are one of the most versatile plants in the landscape and they can be easy to grow as well.  It all begins with selection.  Plan ahead and select vines according to their intended use, color of bloom, sun or shade tolerance and maintenance requirements.  This last one is especially important since some vines like wisteria and honeysuckle will need a lot of pruning.  Climbing vines also need different types of supports based on their growing habits (i.e. clinging, twining, winding).  Clinging vines hold to surfaces by means of rootlets or adhesive disks.  Because they may damage mortar or wood on homes these are best suited for arbors (ex. Virginia Creeper, Trumpet Creeper).  Twining vines encircle upright supports such as wires and lattice (ex. Morning Glory, Carolina Jessamine, Wisteria).  Winding vines climb by means of tendrils that wrap around their supports (ex. Maypop, Clematis, Trumpet Honeysuckle).  Most vines need well-drained, fertile soils.  If you need to amend your soil incorporate organic matter into the top 12 inches of soil before planting.  Dig the planting hole twice the width of the root ball and level the top of the root ball with the top of the soil surface.  If you plant this spring, wait several weeks (4-6 weeks) before fertilizing so the plants can get established.  Use a tablespoon of complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 and sprinkle around the planting hole.

Bulbs, Corms, Rhizomes

Check for slugs around spring bulbs and emerging lilies.  These pests will climb stems and hollow out the daffodil blooms, or chew through a tulip stem.  Handpick slugs or use baits carefully.  You can also place boards on the ground overnight.  Slugs and snails will move under these boards during the day for shelter. Then you can turn over the boards and remove the pests.

Hand weeding around emerging spring bulbs will help eliminate competition for moisture and nutrients.  After pulling weeds, refresh the mulch around the bulbs to prevent new weed seedlings from emerging.  Water is especially needed during bud and foliage development.  If rainfall is insufficient, you may need to irrigate with a soaker hose.  Fertilize your bulbs to help increase bulb size just after flowering.  Use a complete fertilizer, such as 5-10-10 at a rate of 2 lbs. per 100 sq.ft.  As bulbs finish blooming, remove the faded blooms but maintain the foliage for up to six weeks for good bulb development and re-growth next season.  You can remove the foliage when it has yellowed and comes loose when slightly tugged.

If you noticed smaller blooms on your bulbs this year, it may be a signal to divide them.  After the foliage dies back completely, dig up the bulbs, separate, and re-plant them spaced further apart. You can re-plant immediately or store the bulbs and plant in the fall.

The most serious pest to iris is the iris borer.  It overwinters in the egg stage attached to leaves and begins hatching in late April.  The tiny caterpillars crawl up iris leaves and begin chewing and mining their way down within the leaf fold, eventually reaching the rhizome.  Once in the rhizome, they continue to feed, sometimes turning the rhizome to a hollow shell.  To reduce iris borer problems eliminate the eggs by removing and destroying debris and old leaves in and around the iris planting both spring and late fall.  Leaves can be treated in the spring with Dimethoate (Cygon 2E) for additional control. Make the first application when the new growth is 6 to 9 inches in height, then as needed to kill borers within them.

April is the beginning of the summer-flowering bulb planting season.  These are bulbs that will tolerate our summers but must be dug up in the fall before winter.  Most of the summer-flowering bulbs do best if planted in full sun. During April and May you can plant Anemones (windflowers) and expect flowers in May or June.  Lily-of-the-valley can be planted in the shade and makes a great groundcover since it spreads by rhizomes.  Since it is an exception to the rule, Lily-of-the-valley can be left out year round.  Dahlias are often planted as annuals but they can be dug up and stored as well.  These will bloom from June through October.

Spring blooming bulbs should be fertilized lightly this month.  Use 1 pound of 5-10-10 or 3 pounds of bone meal for each 50 sq. ft. bed.  Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers and don’t allow the fertilizer to stay on the foliage since this may cause burn.  Water is very important for bulbs to perform their best.  Springs are typically wet in central Tennessee, however if we experience dry periods you should water your bulbs to ensure survival.  Because some bulbs are planted as deep as 6 to 8 inches, a thorough watering which reaches this depth is required.  As with most garden plants, bulbs need about an inch of water per week.

You can remove faded flowers as they begin to die, but it’s very important to leave the foliage intact.   The leaves manufacture food that is stored in the bulb and without which your bulbs may not return the following year.  Allow the foliage to die naturally and remove leaves by hand-pulling rather than cutting to reduce disease problems.  Avoid tying leaves together since this practice reduces the amount of sunlight plants receive and the amount of food the bulb can produce and store.  If you find the yellowing leaves unattractive, try interplanting your bulbs with perennials like daylilies or spiderwort that partially hide the foliage.

Trees and Shrubs:

Flowering trees are a valuable asset to home landscapes.  One spring bloomer that performs great in our area is our native Redbud (Cercis Canadensis).  This small tree explodes with rosy pink blossoms in early spring which persist up to three weeks.  The blooms are most often the first reason people select this tree.  When in full bloom, flowers nearly cover the leafless branches and may occasionally appear on the trunk.  The tree’s full heart-shaped leaves emerge near the end of the blooming period.  Another good trait of redbuds is their small height.  Maturing at less than 30 feet tall makes this tree a good choice near utility lines.

Redbuds develop with a wide crown and often look best when bordered by evergreens or woodlands.  Although redbuds can tolerate full sun, they perform best when they receive some shade during the hottest part of our summer days.  Their seedpods, which resemble peas, are produced in late summer.  Just as redbuds come into spring with a bang; many would agree they are just as impressive with their bright yellow display of fall color.

When selecting a planting site, look for moist, well-drained soil.  Redbuds should be purchased from a nursery rather than dug from the woods since they don’t transplant easily and may exhibit shock when moved from a wooded environment to an open landscape.  Redbuds grow at a moderate rate but are considered a short-lived tree, often declining from canker after 20 years.  Other than this disease, they are considered a relatively pest free tree.  To discourage canker, keep string trimmers and mowers away from the trunk by applying a 2 to3 inch layer of mulch around the base. There are many cultivars and varieties of redbud available. The following are the most common:

var. alba – a white-flowered form
‘Royal White’ – larger flowers and more compact than var. alba
‘Forest Pansy’ – deep burgundy foliage; rose purple blooms
‘Flame’ – double-pink blooms
‘Silver Cloud’ – variegated pink and white leaves

Although the majority of shrubs do best when pruned in late fall or winter, spring-blooming shrubs such as forsythia, spirea, and rhododendron are pruned when they bloom or immediately after blooming.  These shrubs form next year’s buds in early to mid-summer so timing is critical to avoid loss of blooms next year.  Roses have different pruning needs according to their variety.  Repeat blooming roses such as floribunda and hybrid tea roses benefit best from a heavy pruning every spring, just as the buds break dormancy.  The best way to judge when to prune is to look at the buds; when they begin to swell, go ahead and prune.  Old-fashioned roses and climbers bloom once a year and should be pruned immediately after flowering.  They bloom on wood from the previous year’s growth and should not be pruned in the spring.  Dead, diseased or damaged wood on any rose, tree or shrub can be pruned out at any time.

Tents of the Eastern Tent Caterpillar are a part of the landscape in many trees, especially in subdivision developments in rural areas.  The favorite host plants of the caterpillar are wild cherry and apple trees, but they will also feed on peach, plum, hawthorn and many different shade and forest trees.   These pests are voracious feeders and can completely defoliate small trees.  We usually identify these caterpillars by the web it constructs in the crotches of limbs.  These webs will enlarge as the caterpillars grow and can become several layers thick.  We can exhibit some control of this pest on small trees and where webs are few by hand destruction of the webs or pruning of host limbs. However, better control can be achieved before the webs occur.  The caterpillar will hatch from egg masses encircling small branches that were laid by the moths late last spring.  The eggs hatch about the time when the leaves first begin to come out.  Application of an insecticide at this time will provide good control.  Many insecticides labeled for ornamental use will control this pest.   If you use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), remember to spray the foliage because the caterpillars need to ingest the Bt for it to work.

Vegetables and Herbs:

One of the biggest pests to vegetable gardens are weeds.  Not only do weeds attract other pests, like insects, and provide hiding areas for mice and other rodents that may feed on tender plants, they also compete for water, nutrients, sunlight, and growing space.  If left unchecked, weeds can significantly reduce vegetable yields. Weed control is especially important in the early stages of vegetable development.   Methods of control include: cultivation, mulches, and herbicides.

Cultivation (hoeing, tilling, hand pulling) effectively removes many annual weeds but may not completely remove perennial weeds.  When cultivating the soil, remember shallow tillage is best.   Deep cultivation pulls new weed seeds to the surface where they are exposed to light and can germinate into new plants.  Use a hoe in rows and hand pull weeds next to crops to avoid root damage to vegetables.  This process is most effective if plants are removed before they have a chance to set seed.

Mulch can also be used around vegetables to suppress weeds.  Additionally, mulch helps to regulate soil moisture, reduce erosion, and keep fruits and vegetables clean which may reduce disease problems.   Shredded leaves and pine straw are good choices and should be applied after the soil has begun to warm in the spring but after existing weeds have been removed.

Finally, herbicides, if used according to the label, can be effectively used to control weeds.  Pre-emergence herbicides such as Preen, Treflan, and Miracle Gro Garden Weed Preventer are used before weed seeds germinate.  These products may not be safe around all vegetables and you should refer to the label for specific information.  Remember that these products kill newly emerging seeds, which includes vegetable seeds.   Be sure to follow any waiting periods listed on the label.  Round-up is a post-emergence, non-selective herbicide.  It is absorbed by any actively growing plant.   Still, it can be used to control difficult weeds if you take caution not to allow spray to drift onto your vegetables.  The label lists specific vegetables around which this product can be safely used.

Did you get your cool-season vegetables set out last month?   If you didn’t, fear not.  All the ones listed for March will have plenty of time to develop and mature before the summer heat if you plant them by the end of April.  You can also begin a few of the warm-season vegetables this month such as bush and pole beans, sweet corn and tomatoes.  Be mindful of any late frosts that can damage new seedling or slips.  In Chattanooga, the last frost date is around April 17.  However, in higher elevations like Signal Mountain and Lookout Mountain, frost may occur even later, so waiting until the end of the month or the first of May would be suggested.
• If you do set out tender slips or have new seedlings up when a late frost is expected, cut the bottoms out of gallon milk jugs and place them over your vegetables to give protection. It is very important though to remove the container during the day to protect the plant from overheating.

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Thinking of building a new flowerbed for annuals next year?  There are a few steps you can do now to give you success next year.  Begin by selecting a proper location that has good drainage.  Although you can select some perennials that like wet feet, the majority of annuals prefer well-drained soil.  You can test your drainage by digging several holes 8-12 inches deep in the planting area.  Fill the holes with water and allow the water to soak into the soil.  Fill the holes a second time and then start counting the minutes.  If the water drains in less than an hour, you have a well-drained soil.  If it takes longer than 3 hours you may want to choose a new location.

All planting beds benefit from organic amendments, and if you’ve been spending weekends raking leaves, you’ll know that unlike money, organic matter truly does grow on trees.  You can incorporate these leaves (or compost, grass clippings, manure) to improve soil texture, aeration, and drainage, by tilling 3-4 inches of the organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil.  Next spring, add an all-purpose fertilizer to the bed at a rate of 1-2 lbs per 100 sq. ft. and you are ready to plant.  Most annuals like a slightly acidic to neutral pH.  Soil test to see if any adjustments are necessary.

Bulbs, Corms, Roots and Rhizomes:

Amaryllis bulbs make great gifts during the holidays.  But to force one to bloom during the season will require some special steps. Using a 6 to 8 inch clay pot, fill around the bulb with growing media to within ½ inch of the pot’s edge. The bulb should at least ½ or 1/3 inch above the soil line.  Water to settle the soil and keep the plant around 65 degrees for two weeks to allow for rooting.  After this time move to a well-light area around 75 degrees until bloom.  Growth will take two to eight weeks. Once sprouted, keep the soil moist.  Remove the faded flowers, but allow the stalk to remain until it yellows.  Use a liquid fertilizer monthly to rebuild the bulb.  After danger of frost has past, the bulb can be set outdoors where you should continue watering and fertilizing.  Before the fall frost, bring the bulb back indoors and store in a cool, dark place for eight weeks without water.  After this period, remove any foliage and move the bulb into light and warm temperatures.  Keep the soil almost dry until new growth begins in 2 to 8 weeks to repeat the cycle.

Fruits and Nuts:

Young fruit trees should be protected this winter from the harsh effects of Southeast trunk injury. During cold winter days when sunlight strikes the lower trunk of the tree, the temperature of the cambium tissue raises upwards to 85 degrees.  When night falls and temperatures drop, so will the temperature of the bark resulting in injured or dead tissue.  Trunk guards may be used as protection provided they are loose fitting, light in color, and allow for ventilation.  However, latex paint may be a cheap and advantageous alternative.  White latex paint can be applied to trees 2 years or older in November and December.  Use a brush or sponge and apply from the ground to at least 18 inches above ground on all sides of the tree.

Strawberries benefit from mulch during winter.  Pine needles and wheat straw are great choices and should be applied after the plants have been exposed to several freezes and are dormant.  After growth resumes in the spring, rake mulch off the plants and into the isles to allow sunlight to reach the strawberries.

November through the early part of December is the optimum time for controlling weeds around your apples, peaches, and grapes.  You should concentrate your control efforts in two zones around these fruit crops.  The first zone is within the drip line of the plants and your objective should be to maintain a bare ground strip devoid of weeds, grass, or mulch.  For grapes, this strip needs to be 6 feet wide (3 feet on either side of the vines).  For apples and peaches the strip should be 12 feet (6 feet on either side of the trees).  Keeping this area maintained will reduce competition with weeds or injury caused by voles.  The second management area is between the vegetation-free strips.  These should be maintained in permanent grass sod, preferably tall fescue, and selective removal of broadleaf weeds is all that is needed in this zone.  Information, including herbicide rates, application requirements, use directions and precautions, can be found in several publications at your local extension office.

- For Apples, Integrated Orchard Management Guide for Commercial Apples in the Southeast
- For Peaches, Southeastern Peach, Nectarine and Plum Pest Management and Cultural Guide
- For Grapes, PB 1197 Commercial Small Fruit Spray Schedules and PB1475 Growing Grapes in Tennessee.

Young fruit trees should be protected this winter from the harsh effects of Southeast trunk injury. During cold winter days when sunlight strikes the lower trunk of the tree, the temperature of the cambium tissue raises upwards to 85 degrees.  When night falls and temperatures drop, so will the temperature of the bark resulting in injured or dead tissue.  Trunk guards may be used as protection provided they are loose fitting, light in color, and allow for ventilation.  However, latex paint may be a cheap and advantageous alternative.  White latex paint can be applied to trees 2 years or older in November and December.  Use a brush or sponge and apply from the ground to at least 18 inches above ground on all sides of the tree.

Groundcovers and Lawns:

Watch for Fusarium Patch developing in cool season grasses.  Symptoms include gray or light tan patches up to 6 inches in diameter increasing to 2 feet in diameter under snow cover.  This disease occurs most often when leaves are left on the ground during times of cold, wet weather.  It can spread rapidly when snow falls, especially on unfrozen ground, and remains as a cover over the infected area.  Activity may also occur when daytime temperatures do not reach 60 degrees, regardless of snowfall.  The solution, however, is simple.  Avoid Fusarium Patch by raking up leaves, avoiding late fertilizer applications and mowing grass until growth stops.

Don’t under-estimate the damaging effects of rock salt we use to de-ice walks and drives.  Termed the ‘white death’ by some, salt can cause damage to foliage of plants, reduce vigor and may accumulate in the soil.  Salt is also highly absorbent and can deprive plant roots of water.  These problems can occur not only in turf, but trees, shrubs and perennials as well.  Use alternatives to salt such as coarse sand, cat box litter or CMA (calcium magnesium acetate), an environmental friendly chemical that biodegrades quickly and does not harm plants.

Weeds like henbit, deadnettle, and common chickweed are called winter annuals.  Winter annuals germinate from seed in the fall, begin development but lay semi-dormant over the winter, and complete development in the spring.  They then set seed and die in the summer.  Most homeowners try to control this and other winter annual weeds when they first find them in March, but plants are often mature at this time, tougher to control, and may have already begun to set seed.  If your lawn has a history of winter annual weed problems treat in November.  During this time the weeds are in a young stage and much more susceptible to a post-emergence spray of 2, 4-D or Weed Be Gone. This late fall application will also help control wild garlic, another difficult broadleaf weed.

Perennial Flowers and Vines:

Dead plant debris on perennials and vines can be removed in November, however not all plants should be pruned the same way.  True herbaceous plants that die back to the ground each year like daylilies, hostas and peonies will turn brown or black after frost.  These can be pruned to the ground.  Semi-herbaceous perennials like black-eyed susans and coneflower can also be pruned after frost but you should plan to leave 2-3 inches of foliage near the ground that will remain green through the winter.  Lavender, sage and hardy rosemary are considered woody evergreen perennials and should not be pruned since they continue to grow during the winter.  Ornamental grasses provide a unique winter interest in the garden and are best left for pruning in the spring.

Plants in Pots:

Poinsettias and winter fit together like the beach and summer, but how do you get the most out of your poinsettia this year?  It starts with selection.  Avoid plants that are yellowed or are dropping leaves.  These may have been over-watered and may be inflicted with a root disease.  Bringing home your poinsettia requires special attention since even short exposure to cold temperatures can be damaging.  Once home, your plant will do best with 6 hours of indirect sunlight.  To keep the maximum color, avoid temperature extremes associated with cold drafts or heaters.  Keep the soil moderately moist by checking daily and watering until water comes through the drainage holes. Don’t allow poinsettias, or any of your houseplants, to sit in water since this may cause damaging root diseases.

Is it possible to celebrate the holidays without the poinsettia? These tropical plants have always helped us decorate mantles and table tops with their colorful bracts.  Even though they are very showy, there are many other festive plants available at florists and garden centers to help celebrate the season.

Amaryllis

Amaryllises explode with large red, white, pink, or orange lily-like flowers on a 1 to 2 foot stalk. They can act as a huge exclamation point in your decorations. You can purchase amaryllis as a bulb and then plant in a pot filled with well-drained soil leaving a 1/3 of the bulb above the soil line.  You can also purchase a pre-potted plant at various developed stages, including full bloom. Amaryllises need a sunny, warm location (temperatures above 60F).  High light intensity will strengthen the stalk and keep the plant from tipping over.  Remove the blossoms as they fade and keep the soil evenly moist.  If you’re giving a bulb as a gift, keep in mind the larger the bulb the more potential for flower buds.

Gloxinias

These low-growing potted plants produce velvety flowers of purple, pink, and white for up to 3 to 4 weeks on a 6 inch plant.  Like their African violet relative, gloxinias need specific care.  Primarily, avoid high-intensity sunlight and cold or hot drafts and avoid water on the leaves.  Water from the saucer with warm water instead of overhead irrigation.

Christmas Cactus

This easy to grow houseplant is a perfect choice for the holidays.  It’s even named for the season.  To encourage its brilliant flowers, place your Christmas Cactus in full sun during the winter and fertilize every two weeks.  Cacti are damaged most often by over-watering, so let the soil dry out between watering.  To induce flower bud formation during the fall as the days get shorter, reduce the amount of water and place your cactus in a cooler room (55-60 F night temperature).  This will encourage a healthy bloom-set.

Jerusalem Cherry

This colorful plant is noted not so much for blooms, but the bright round, orange-red berries that stay on the plants for months.  The berries are not really cherries nor are they edible, so use caution around children. They prefer bright, indirect light and cool temperatures (50-68F).  Let the soil dry out between watering and fertilize monthly to encourage a longer life span.  Jerusalem Cherry is somewhat difficult to over-winter, so consider these an annual purchase.

Other holiday possibilities could include Cyclamen, Christmas Peppers, and even Paperwhite Narcissus, potted and in full-bloom.

Trees and Shrubs:

Late fall and winter planting of dormant trees and shrubs will give you more success and require less maintenance next summer.  Temperatures are cooler and rain is more abundant during this time, which creates a less stressful environment for plants. In the spring, trees and shrubs will recover rapidly and become well established before summer heat and dryness increases the amount of watering and care required.

Keep in mind, some general guidelines when planting.  First measure the rootball and dig a hole that allows 2 to 3 inches of the rootball to extend above the soil surface.  A deeply planted tree creates a moist environment around the base of the trunk that can harbor insects and create disease problems.  Dig the diameter of the hole to twice the diameter of the rootball.  Backfill with existing soil or amend with a ratio of two parts existing soil to one part organic material.  Backfilling with only organic material will create a flowerpot effect where roots stay in the new soil rather than growing into the hard clay.  This reduces the plants ability to find water in times of drought and decreases the trees chances for survival.  Use water to settle the soil and remove any air pockets that are near the roots.  Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch to the surface of the soil but not directly against the trunk to avoid vole problems.  Finally, inspect the tree or shrub a remove any broken or misshapen branches.

Trees are a valuable asset to our home landscape.  In addition to blooms, texture, and fall color, trees also help reduce energy bills by casting shade on our homes during summer.  People are often reluctant to plant large shade trees because they don’t want to wait 20 years to enjoy the benefit. Selecting a fast-growing tree therefore is a primary concern.  However, read about specific trees that are sold as “fast-growing” and any maintenance problems they may have before purchasing. Bradford Pear trees are an example of a fast-growing tree, but as most people are aware, they are very short lived, often breaking apart in storms after only 20 years of growth.

Selecting the right fast-growing tree for you starts with an analysis of your landscape.  Every tree has specific environmental conditions that are needed for optimum growth.  The closer your landscape meets these conditions, the better your tree will perform.  Some of the conditions to consider are: temperature, sunlight, soil texture, drainage and fertility.  Additionally, overhead and underground utility lines will impact the placement of a tree and it is best to avoid these structures in order to reduce future problems.  Large shade trees should be spaced one-half the distance of their spread from any structure or overhead obstruction and the full width of the mature tree from the trunk of any other large growing tree.  Western, southern and southeastern exposures of your home receive the most heat from the sun and are good locations to place your large shade trees.  Although there are many trees that produce shade, the ones listed below are considered fast-growing and very desirable and may be a good choice for your landscape.

• Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum): H 60-100 ft/W 40-50 ft
• Japanese Zelkova (Zelkova serrata): H 60-80 ft/W 30-40 ft
• Lacebark Elm (Ulmus parvifolia): H 40-60 ft/W 30-40 ft
• Red Maple (Acer rubrum): H 40-60 ft/W 25-40 ft
• River Birch (Betula nigra): H 50-60 ft/W 40-50 ft
• Sawtooth Oak (Quercus acutissima): H 50-60 ft/W 30-60 ft
• Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera): H 80-100 ft/W 30-40 ft
• Willow Oak (Quercus phellos): H 40-60 ft/W 30-60 ft

Around the Home:

Fall temperatures are a signal to most insects and animals to seek shelter for winter.  Often, your home may be a cozy and easy place to set up lodging.  Exclusionary tactics are your best defense. Check for openings in eaves, unscreened attic vents, knotholes, or openings around cables that may allow squirrels or chipmunks access to attics.  Even small holes are potential entrances since squirrels will gnaw to make them larger.  Cover these openings with ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth.

If you’re planning to use a fresh cut Christmas tree this holiday, follow these simple guidelines for a successful selection.

• Feel the needles. The tree’s needles should be bendable.   If they snap or are easily crushed, they are too dry.
• Lift the tree a few inches off the ground and bring down abruptly on the stump. It is natural for some inside needles to fall but outer needles should not drop off.
• Make a fresh cut across the base of the trunk then immediately place in water.  If the base of the tree dries out, a seal will form and you will have to make a new cut.

Once you have your tree indoors and decorated, these guidelines will help keep your tree fresh and green for many weeks.

Water your tree heavily for the first week. The tree may require from 2 quarts to a gallon of water per day.  The warmth inside your house mimics spring, triggering the tree to begin growing. Without water, it will soon dry out. Sprinkling or misting the branches and needles will also help retain freshness.

Place the tree away from heat sources.  Cut Christmas trees need to be fresh to maintain their healthy appearance and to help reduce fire hazards.  Be sure the base of the tree is well supported and away from open flame or other heat sources.

Never use lighted candles on or near the tree, and don’t leave your home with the tree lights left on. The longer the time since the tree was cut, the drier and more combustible it becomes. Remember to check electrical light cords for fraying and worn spots that could easily lead to fires.

Don’t forget that many county recycling centers will accept your discarded tree and use it to make mulch. This certainly makes more sense than leaving it on the curb to go to the landfill.  If you like to attract birds to your lawn, setting the tree up outside will act as haven to birds until spring.

To avoid problems with ladybeetles, boxelder bugs and spiders invading your home this winter, do some pest-proofing today. Many of you may have experienced lady beetle invasions in the past. One of the best ways to prevent unwanted invasions by insects (also rodents, birds, etc.) in the home is to deny entry.  The following tips will give suggestions that not only block insects from seeking shelter in homes, but also conserve energy and increase the comfort level during summer and winter.

1. Install door sweeps at the base of all exterior entry doors. One way to check the seal around your door is at night with the lights on inside. If you see gaps of light around the seal of 1/16 inch or more from outside the house, there is a possibility for entry of insects and spiders.
2. Seal utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding (i.e., outdoor faucets, gas meters, clothes dryer vents). Holes can be plugged with caulking, cement, steel wool or urethane expandable foam.
3. Use a quality silicone or latex caulk around windows, doors, etc. Prior to sealing, cracks should be cleaned and any peeling caulk removed for adhesion.
4. Repair gaps and tears in window and door screens to help reduce entry of flies or gnats in summer or cluster flies and lady beetles in early fall.
5. Install 1/4 inch wire mesh (hardware cloth) over attic, roof, and crawl space vents in order to prevent entry of squirrels, birds and other wildlife.

One technique for finding entry points around your home is to turn on all your indoor lights at night and walk around your home checking for areas where light is escaping.  If light is getting out, chances are pests are getting in.

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Fruit trees, specifically apples, have a natural tendency to want to produce fruit only once every two years.  This can be especially noted in the year following a heavy crop.  Thinning a fruit crop is the answer to this natural condition.  Thinning fruit is also beneficial because it helps avoid limb breakage and improves the quality (appearance, taste) of the remaining fruit. Excessive fruit can also reduce development of young trees.  The best way to thin a crop is by hand.  Clusters of fruit should be broken up and fruit should be left well spaced on the limb.  Poles can be used for removing hard to reach fruit but it is a less accurate method than hand removal.  Proper spacing of apples should be 6-7 inches apart and peach should be 6-8 inches apart.  Chemical thinners are available to aide in fruit removal, but these are most commonly used by commercial orchardist.  Manual fruit removal should be delayed after bloom for four to six weeks since a natural drop will remove some of the fruit.  Apples should be about the size of a nickel when removed.

Stone fruit trees such as peach, cherry and plum should be sprayed this month to protect against peach tree borer.   The peach tree borer is a clearwing moth larva that bores into the trunk at the soil line.  Once inside, it can girdle the trunk, cutting off nutrient and water flow and making the tree more susceptible to diseases.  A common sign of borer presence is the gummy extract that exudes near entry holes most often near wounds or galls on the trunk. One preventative control against the borer includes a trunk spray of Thiodan 50WP this month.  Sprays should be directed to the trunk and basal part of scaffold limbs for best results.  New research in Michigan has also found that using pheromone ties can be an effective control.  Adult moths find each other in the orchard by releasing pheromones; by saturating the air with female pheromones in the ties, the male becomes disoriented and the two do not mate.  Thus fertile eggs are not laid and larvae are not produced to cause damage.  Ties need to be applied at the rate of 100 per acre in the prebloom to petal fall stage of peach to be effective.

Groundcovers and Lawns:

One common question is about mushrooms in lawns.  In most cases, the mushrooms are appearing where a tree used to stand a few years before and has since been removed.  In this situation, underground roots are continuing to decay and fungi are helping the process.  As part of their life cycle they produce mushrooms.  Short of digging up the roots, little can be done to remedy this problem.   However, if mushrooms are appearing in your lawn in a circular or crescent shape, you may have a turf disease called Fairy Rings.  This disease is caused by a fungi growing in lawns with a high organic matter level.  Old stumps buried in the lawn or a high thatch layer may cause Fairy Rings.  Typically, puffball mushrooms are seen in late summer or fall but a ring of very green grass or, in some cases, dead grass may be seen year round. The soil in this crescent may become very dry and difficult to wet.  The removal of thatch and proper management practices may help keep this problem from occurring.  Proper irrigation and aerification is also helpful.  If you already have a problem with Fairy Rings, extra watering of the rings or a fungicide drench may help the turf recover.

Of all the perennial grassy weeds that invade our lawns each year one of the more difficult to control after emergence is Dallisgrass.  Dallisgrass grows in clumps and also sends out rhizomes.  It is unsightly in lawns, because it shoots up a seed head several feet tall soon after the lawn has been mowed.  Because Dallisgrass is closely related to turfgrass, it is difficult to control without damaging the lawn.  Ideally, we want to control this and other perennial grasses (crabgrass, goosegrass) with a pre-emergence herbicide.  For control of Dallisgrass in tall fescue we are limited to a spot treatment with either MSMA or Roundup.  Because tall fescue can receive injury or may be killed by these two chemicals, direct your spray at the crown of the weed instead of all the runners to lessen the amount of turf damage.  In bermudagrass, MSMA can be broadcast over the lawn.  Some discoloration may occur for a couple of weeks but bermudagrass will recover.

Perennial Flowers and Vines:

May is the month when peonies bloom, unfortunately flowering only last for about a week.  A common question about peonies is why they didn’t bloom.  Many factors can be responsible for this including insect or disease problems, inadequate sunlight, excessive nitrogen or late freezes.  More often, bloom failure is found in young, immature plants that have been planted to deep.  Peonies should be set in a well-drained soil where the red buds of the plant are just two inches below the soil.  If your plants are mature and have bloomed before but don’t this year, they may be overcrowded and it is time to divide them this fall.  Peonies can grow two to four feet in height and taller varieties may require staking.  By the way, the ants seen on peonies are neither harmful nor helpful; they are just attracted to the nectar.

Thinning dead and damaged shoots of perennials during early growth stages will encourage stronger and healthier plants.  Pinching back new growth will also help produce bushier plants and increase flower development. Deadheading spent flowers may also promote additional flowering.

Delphinium, foxglove or lilies growing in windy sites may require staking to prevent lodging (falling over).  It is best to stake smaller plants when they first send up growth to avoid breakage.  Use a stake two-thirds the height of the plants mature size and secure the shoot to the stake with twine.  When done correctly the plants grow to cover the stakes.

Pansies will be reaching the end of temperature tolerance.  When they start to show stress, it’s time to replace them with summer annuals.

Trees and Shrubs:

Dogwood is one of Tennessee’s favorite picks for a colorful, low growing backyard tree.  However, it is also susceptible to many damaging diseases.  Of these, powdery mildew is one of the more common.  This disease appears like powder on the upper leaf surface and younger leaves can be twisted, elongated or leathery because of the infection.  Fungicidal sprays of Banner or Cleary’s 3336 applied at the first sign of problem can help.  Resistant cultivars are also available if you are thinking of planting a dogwood. ‘Cherokee Brave’ and most Cornus kousa cultivars are moderately resistant to the disease.  Three new varieties include ‘Jean’s Appalachian Snow’ a white bloomer with greenish-red berries, ‘Karen’s Appalachian Blush’ a white bloomer with pink edges and vivid red fall color and ‘Kay’s Appalachian Mist’ a white bloomer with red berries.  All three are very resistant to powdery mildew. Some general guidelines to follow when planting dogwoods are to select a location in the sun.  Although dogwoods naturally grow in the shade, disease pressure can be much higher in shade conditions.  Irrigation during periods of drought is a must for newly planted trees; however avoid getting water on the leaves since this creates a favorable situation for diseases.  Using mulch around the base of the tree will help hold moisture and prevent damage from occurring to the trunk.  Although trees can be planted in the spring the absolute best time for planting dogwoods is in the fall.

Junipers, cedars, arborvitae and white pine are often victims of insects; one insect you may have noticed ‘hanging out’ on small limbs in your landscape are the bagworms.  These pests actually become moths when mature, but the most commonly seen stage are the larvae in their ‘bag’ constructed of materials from the plant on which they feed. They are a foliage feeder and heavy infestations can caused considerable defoliation.  Because bagworms spend most of their life enclosed in a protective casing, there is a very small window to gain control of these pests.  Bags remain on the tree over winter, many containing hundreds of bagworm eggs.  In late April to mid May these eggs begin to hatch and the young larvae begin feeding on the plants.  Within a few months they can construct their own bag and will no longer be susceptible to pesticides.  Therefore, timing of sprays is crucial, applying when larvae are small and before a new casing is constructed.  Recommended sprays for bagworms include Sevin, Dipel, and Orthene.  One of the best non-chemical controls is to handpick the bags off the tree.  This can be very successful if you remove all the bags, but remember that one bag can hold over 100 eggs, so don’t miss any.

Vegetables and Herbs:

May is a great month to be in the vegetable garden because you have so many more vegetable options.  Beans (Bush Snap, Pole Snap, Bush Lima) can be planted this month and you can expect your first harvest in 60 to 65 days. Pole Limas will take an additional 30 days before harvest.   Cantaloupe can be planted and will be ready for harvest in 90 days.  Expect to harvest sweet corn in 90-95 days.  Other vegetable crops for summer planting include: Cucumbers, Eggplant, Okra, Peas, Peppers, Sweet Potato, Pumpkin, Squash, Tomatoes and Watermelon.  In general, expect to harvest vegetables between 60-80 days.  Primary exceptions include Sweet Potato, Pumpkin and Winter Squash, which take over 100 days to mature.

People often have questions about growing okra and many times those questions are focused on the lack or loss of blooms.  It is important to soil test before growing this vegetable since pH often plays a factor in fruit set.  The soil should have a pH between 5.8 and 6.5. Low pH, low calcium and low phosphorous can cause an okra plant to drop blooms; soil testing helps avoid this problem.  Sometimes, however, inadequate moisture or low bee pollination can also lead to bloom drop.  To avoid this problem water in periods of drought and avoid spraying chemicals when bees are present in the garden.

Another vegetable that causes fears because of bloom drop is the cucumber.  This should not be of concern however because cucumber vines have both female and male flowers.  The first flowers to appear are male which drop from the vine and do not bear fruit. Later flowers will be a mix of male and female flowers and pollination will occur.  For higher yields from your plants, side-dress with a high nitrogen fertilizer after flowers appear and again three weeks later. Do not over fertilize since that will encourage more vines and less fruit.

Beans are also a vegetable that should not be over-fertilized since too much nitrogen leads to more plant and less fruit. Fertilizer should be added at the time of planting by working it into the soil, later a side dressing can be applied after pods begin to develop or if the foliage is turning yellow.

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Summer blooming bulbs like caladiums, dahlias and gladioli are not frost hardy in Tennessee and should be dug up this month and stored until next spring. To store bulbs cut back the top growth and dig the bulbs prior to frost.  Remove the dirt and lay the bulbs on paper to dry.  Store them in paper bags with dry potting soil in cool temperatures (45-50°F).  Gladioli bulbs can be stored loose in a mesh bag.

October marks the last month for planting your spring blooming bulbs.  Some bloomers like daffodils should have already been planted because they need a longer growing season before winter.  However, many can still be planted.  Consider sunlight when choosing a planting site. Most bulbs need at least 4 to 6 hours of sunlight daily to develop large blooms. Good drainage should also be of concern.  Select bulbs that are large, free of blemish, and have good color and weight. Planting should be done before the ground freezes in the fall. Try massing bulbs for a more natural appearance in the landscape.  Planting depth for bulbs vary but the rule of thumb is 2 to 3 times as deep as the height of the bulb.  Plant your bulbs too shallow and you may risk loss to frost damage.

Fruits and Nuts:

Your strawberry planting should be mulched to protect against winter damage to strawberry crowns and flower buds.  Apply a loose mulch to a depth of four inches after there have been several light frosts, but before a hard freeze.  Applying the mulch too early can increase crown rot disease and may inhibit the plant from going dormant.  Good options for mulch materials include pine needles, rye or wheat straw. Removing the mulch next spring is as important as applying it in the fall.  Remove the mulch when new growth first occurs.  Blooming of plants can be delayed by leaving a mulch in place and will reduce your yields.

When you think about your strawberry plants in the fall, mulch should be the first thing to mind. Mulching strawberries provides protection from cold temperatures, reduces weed competition and conserves moisture, all necessary to a strawberry’s success.  Apply 3 inches of pine needles or rye or wheat straw after several light frosts have occurred, but before a hard freeze.  Don’t forget next spring after heavy frost periods have ended to rake the straw from the plants to the isles.

Controlling weeds at the base of apple, peach and grapes helps reduce competition for moisture and nutrients, but more importantly, helps to lessen vole problems.  Meadow or Pine Voles (similar to field mice) feed on the bark of trees during winter months and can at times completely girdle and kill a tree.  Grass and weeds growing at the base of these fruit trees create a suitable habitat for the vole. Your first treatment with herbicides to eliminate weeds can be safely applied late October through early December. The second application should be made in the spring just after pruning. For apples and peach the weed-free-zone should reach from the trunk to the drip-line of the canopy. Three feet on both sides of an arbor is a sufficient weed-free-zone for grapes.

Groundcovers and Lawns:

Cool season lawns, like fescues, do most of their growing in cooler temperatures. They will benefit from an application of 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. this October.

If you have finally given up on the thinning, yellow grass you have been trying to grow in the shade why not consider perennial groundcovers. Groundcovers can be a solution to that troublesome shaded lawn and provide the additional benefits of quick growth while adding interest, either by color or texture, to a corner of your yard.

The best time to establish groundcovers is in the fall. In flat areas, it is recommended that you amend the soil by incorporating four inches of organic matter into the top six inches of soil. This will improve drainage and enrich the soil to give your plants a healthy start. On steep banks, spray unwanted vegetation with a weed killer but allow the dead plants to remain in order to prevent erosion while your new groundcover plants are getting established. If you are planning to plant under trees, you should not till the soil since this process will damage the small feeder roots of the trees. Instead, purchase smaller plants and place them around the roots of the trees to avoid excessive damage. Water newly planted groundcovers every five to seven days with an inch of water. The soil should be moist to a depth of four to six inches after adequate watering. Applying an organic mulch two to three inches deep will help reduce evaporation of moisture and weed emergence. A soil test will show how much fertilizer your plants will need and suggest any changes needed to the soil pH. The proper groundcover will add year-round beauty to your landscape and save you money on grass seed in the future. The following are some groundcovers to consider for full or part shade:

• Bugleweed (Ajuga) – creeping growth habit with blue or purple flowers
• Cotoneaster – flat, horizontal-growing plant with red berries
• Liriope – grass-like, evergreen
• Periwinkle (Vinca)- evergreen, trailing plant with purple, blue or white flowers
• St. Johnswort – semievergreen, turns red in fall, yellow flowers in summer

Do you have trouble growing grass in shady areas? Chances are you will never see a nice dense lawn in heavy shade. Competition for water and light usually results in a sparse and spindly lawn. In these areas, consider mulch or groundcovers like Vinca minor or Pachysandra as a lawn replacement. However, if you have light shade there are some improvements that can be made this fall. Trimming lower limbs and “dead wood” from large trees can greatly increase the amount of light reaching your lawn. Also, remove fallen leaves and don’t allow them to pile up under trees.

Remember that cool season lawns, like fescues, do most of their growing in cooler temperatures. They will benefit from an application of 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. this October.

If you reseeded your lawn in September and have been watering daily with a light mist, its time to switch your watering schedule. When grass seeds are germinating they need small amounts of water frequently (almost daily). Once they are growing they need more water but not as often (about 1 to 2 inches weekly). This will encourage the roots to develop deep in the soil, which will better prepare your lawn for the dry seasons next summer.

Perennial Flowers and Vines:

If you are considering planting a vine for your trellis this fall look no further than the showy Clematis. There are over 250 species and hybrids of this vine and each differs in flower form, color, blooming time, and height. There are three general flower forms: 1) small, white flowers in clusters 2) bell-shaped flowers and 3) flat, open flowers. The largest of these blooms may grow ten inches in diameter.

Clematis require full sun, although they will respond well to light shade during the hottest part of the day. Select an open site to allow for good air movement around the plants. The soil should be rich and well-draining with a pH near 7.0. Unlike the vine’s stem and foliage, the roots of clematis should be kept shaded, cool, and moist. Select a strong support for clematis. Since this plant climbs by twining petioles, it is important that thin materials such as plastic coated wire be used to allow the vine to grab hold. The wire can be connected to wooden trellis or other supports by fastening the wire with eye hooks, leaving enough gaps for good air circulation. Clematis that are purchased in containers can be planted in the fall or spring, but bareroot plants are best planted in the spring while they are dormant. Dig a hole large enough to spread out the roots of the plant and amend the soil with an organic material. Prune the stems of the clematis back to 12 inches in height to encourage branching and to reduce stem breakage. The crown of the plant should be one to two inches below the soil surface. Water well after planting and consider planting other perennials with shallow roots around the plant to provide the shade the clematis desires. Good examples include Artemisia ‘Silver Mound’, creeping phlox, or coralbells. A two-inch layer of mulch may also be used to keep the clematis cool. Some recommended species and cultivars of clematis include:

• C. alpina – blooms lavender or purple in April and May, grows to 8 feet
• C. chrysocoma – blooms mauve-pink in May and June, grows to 20 feet
• C. maximowicziana – blooms white in September, grow to 30 feet, very vigorous
• C. tangutica – yellow blooms in July-October, grows 10 to 15 feet in height
• ‘Barbara Jackman’ – blooms purplish-blue in May and June, grows to 8 feet
• ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’ – blooms pink in July and August, grows to 8 feet
• C. x jackmanii – blooms deep purple in July and August, grows to 10 feet
• ‘Marie Boisselot’ – blooms pink from June to September, grows to 12 feet
• ‘Mrs. Cholmondeley’ – blooms lavender blue from May to October, grows to 20 feet

Many herbaceous perennials can still be added to the garden in October. They should be planted, however, before a hard freeze to allow roots time to become established. Remember that October is typically dry in Tennessee so don’t forget to water during establishment.

Wait until spring before cutting back the tops of ornamental grasses. Many grasses will hold their seed heads and drying blades for months creating winter interest in your garden.

Many perennials are noted for their fall blooms. Garden mums typically top the list for autumn color but consider Sedums and Patrina as two alternatives to the norm. Sedum varieties Autumn Joy and Matrona are top choices for their showy blooms, succulent foliage and size (24”). Plant Sedum in sun or light shade with well-drained soil. Patrina (Patrina scabious) grows up to 4 ft. and produces bright gold blooms. These do best in full sun with well-drained soils.

Plants in Pots:

Before bringing in your houseplants for winter be sure to give each plant a careful inspection for hitching pests first. Often pests can be removed by washing plants with soapy water, handpicking pests, or using a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to rub and remove pests. Occasionally, insecticides will be need for good control, but when possible, use low risk pesticides such as horticultural oil and insecticidal soap. The following is a list of some of the pests you may expect to find on houseplants and how to control them:

• Aphids – These pests are very common on houseplants and typically found on the underside of leaves, stems, or flower buds. They have a pear-shaped body with long legs and antennae and may be winged or wingless. Use horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to control heavy infestations.
• Mites – Cyclamen Mites are very small pests that require a magnifying lens to be seen. They cause twisted, curled and brittle leaves where they feed and may cause injury to flower buds as well. Trim off badly infected plant parts to reduce mite populations. Emerge the infested plant (pot and all) in 110°F water for 15 minutes for control of the remaining mites.
• Fungus Gnats – The larvae stage of this insect feeds on roots and the crown of plants. The adult gnats, a dark-colored flying insect, cause no damage but are a nuisance in the home. Avoid overwatering plants and use insecticide sprays to kill adults.
• Scales – Several species of scale occur on houseplants, most occurring on the leaves and stems of plants. Scale suck juices from the plant causing stunted plants. If only a few scale are seen, washing with soapy water will be successful, however heavily infested plants should be discarded.
• Thrips – Thrips are a slender, barely visible, pest that fly or leap about on a plant when disturbed. They are found most often on the leaves and flowers of plants feeding on the plant juices. Damaged foliage may be blotched or drop and flowers may be streaked or distorted. Spray the plant and soil surface three to four times on a four-day interval with an insecticide labeled for control.
• Whiteflies – Adults of this pest have white wedge-shaped wings and resemble small snow flakes when disturbed. Whiteflies feed on leaves causing them to turn yellow and die. As with aphids and some scale, whiteflies excrete honeydew that will leave a sticky substance on the leaves. Spray with a labeled insecticide at weekly intervals for control.

If your houseplants have been enjoying a double life as porchplants, now is time to bring them indoors. Plants that have been basking in full sunlight may exhibit some signs of shock (mainly leaf drop) as they are moved indoors. You can minimize this problem by placing plants where they can receive the most sunlight, usually near windows on the south side of your home. Over a four-week period, gradually move these plants away from the window and nearer to their normal display area. Humidity indoors differs greatly than outdoors and plants may have trouble adjusting to this change. When you notice leaf drying or curling, spray the leaves with a mist of water in the morning to add moisture. Plants that require high humidity may do better in kitchens or bathrooms.

It’s also important to carefully inspect the plants for insects before they are brought in the home. You may expect to find whitefly, spider mites, thrips and even cutworms on some houseplants. Giving your plants a bath in soapy water (2 teaspoons of mild detergent to gallon of water) can remove the bigger portion of these pests. Handpicking is most effective for removal of cutworms, snails and mealybugs.

Trees and Shrubs:

There are many advantages of applying mulch around the base of your trees and shrubs this fall. In addition to helping regulate soil moisture, mulch also protects roots from winter damage and prevents mowers and string trimmer from damaging the bark of trees. However, as with most things in life, too much of a good thing can also be damaging. Often, over-zealous landscapers pile mulch a foot or more deep around the base of tree. These ‘mulch volcanoes’ appear as if a tree has just erupted from the large pile of mulch. Don’t make the same mistake in your yard because excessive mulch can lead to many problems. For example, mulch that touches the trunk of trees creates favorable environments for disease and insects. Also, it provides habitat for voles and other rodents which may feed on the bark and roots of younger trees during the winter. Maintain a mulch-free area around the trunk of the tree and at least six inches from the trunk to avoid these problems. Mulch should never be applied over three inches thick since thick layers may keep soil temperatures warmer and delay dormancy of trees. This delay can often lead to winter damage. Consider using organic mulches, such as pine bark, hardwood, or pine needles for mulch, since they will add organic matter to the soil as they decompose. Never use fresh grass clippings, sawdust or bark since they deplete nutrients, especially nitrogen, from the soil and may be toxic to trees.

Although native trees abound in our natural landscapes, it has been fairly recent that they have begun being planted in urban landscapes. This is primarily due to availability and an under-appreciation of these trees. The most compelling reason to consider planting native trees is their ability to tolerate Tennessee weather better than many other introduced plants. Although many native trees are considered drought and cold tolerant, it is important to remember that differences exists between natural landscapes and urban landscape and unless these conditions can be reproduced, including shade density or rich organic soils, your success with natives may be variable. Nevertheless, many native trees provide wildlife benefits and interesting color, form, fruits and aroma, and should not be overlooked. If you are considering a new tree for your landscape, check out some of the following natives first.

• Buckeye Aesculus spp.
• Silverbell Halesia carolina
• Yellow-Poplar Liriodendron tulipifera
• Willow Oak Quercus phellos
• Sassafras Sassafras albidum
• American Linden Tilia americana
• Serviceberry Amelanchier arborea
• Pawpaw Asimina triloba
• Fringetree Chionanthus virginicus
• Smoketree Cotinus obovatus
• Sweetbay Magnolia virginiana

We are very fortunate to have so many natural woodland areas in Tennessee and perhaps there is no other time when they are more noticeable than in autumn. Fall color is a response to cooler temperatures and shorter day lengths, which signals the tree to stop producing chlorophyll, the pigment that gives the tree its green color. As the chlorophyll breaks down, we are left with the Yellows and Golds. Some trees like maples and dogwoods produce pigments that mask the Yellows and make Reds and Purples. They are intensified by sugars produced in the leaves. The average peak period is the last week in October through the first week in November. Regardless of how fall happens, it certainly is beautiful. You can add fall color to your own home lawn by simply selecting and planting trees noted for their autumn beauty. If you would like to see more Reds consider planting Dogwoods, Crape myrtle, Sourwood, Sumac and some Maples. Yellows are found in Paw Paw, American Hornbeam, American Smoke Tree, Eastern Hop hornbeam and Galaxy Magnolia. The trees listed here are considered small trees (under 40 feet tall); however even small trees need space. Consider the mature size of the tree and plant where it will have room to grow. Under a power line or 3 feet from the side of the house is usually not adequate space.

Annual Flowers and Vines:

Some annuals like pansies, violas, snapdragons and dianthus can survive mild winters in Tennessee. These can be planted in September or October and bloom to next spring. Use pine straw to give some winter protection.

Flowering cabbage and kale are slowly gaining popularity in winter gardens. These hardy annuals can be planted in the landscape in fall. After a heavy frost, when garden mums start to lose their luster, these guys can really shine. The color of flowering cabbage and kale develops when green chlorophyll begins to fade from the leaf (when temperatures drop below 50°F) and is replaced with reds, pinks and whites. Flowering cabbage has smooth leaves while flowering kale is divided into fringed-leaf and feather-leaf cultivars. All three cultivars have varieties with outstanding color.

Vegetables and Herbs:

What are you going to do with all your leaves this fall? Good gardeners know that composting makes sense. One way that takes minimal time and helps you gain maximum benefit is to apply your leaves to the garden. A layer about 2 to 4 inches deep can be spread over your garden and tilled in this fall. As the leaves decompose they add enriching organic matter to the soil, increase aeration and help hold moisture. This method also limits the amount of work required when composting in bins.

Even if you don’t till in leaves to your garden you should till under your vegetable debris. Dead plants left in the garden can become reservoirs on which many common garden pests, such as the cutworm, can continue to develop or overwinter. Overseeding your garden plot with Crimson Clover, Red Clover or rye can help provide additional nitrogen and organic matter. In the spring, this covercrop can be tilled in to the soil.

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